This page is intended to help you settle your
new kitten into their new environment with as little stress to you both as
possible. It covers introducing your new kitten, feeding, toileting,
grooming and bathing, vaccinations, parasite control and lastly but most
important play and toys.
If you have had a kitten before then much of
this will be known to you but many people are experiencing the pleasure of a
kitten for the first time and this page is written especially for them.
The most important thing to remember is to do
any changes gradually to avoid any stress to your kitten.
INTRODUCING YOUR NEW KITTEN
When you bring your new
Tilsie kitten home everything will be new and strange to him. To help him
settle you must try and keep things calm and as used to what he has become
accustomed to as you can, this is the reason for the kitten pack. Try and
introduce him to one room at a time so he doesn’t become lost and scared.
Allow access to everywhere only when you are around and keep them in one room
when you are out. This period of getting to know his new surroundings
shouldn’t take long as kittens are naturally inquisitive and soon discover
where everything is. When you feel your kitten has settled then let him
have whatever freedom of your home that you want him to have.
Tilsie kittens have been
introduced to
both dogs and other cats but I would advise you to use caution when
introducing your new kitten to any existing pets. Gradually introduce them
and don’t leave them alone until you are absolutely sure they have both
accepted each other. Pay equal attention to both to avoid any jealously setting
in. It may take time and there may be hissing and spitting from your kitten
but this is a defence mode, as long as your existing pet is friendly, it will
soon pass. If you are introducing your kitten to another cat you may find the
older cat puts your new kitten in his place. This is natural, your cat is just
making sure the kitten knows the pecking order. If you are introducing the
kitten to a dog just be careful the dog doesn’t get to rough as this may
frighten the kitten. All our dogs get on well with our cats and it is lovely
to see. Just persevere and your pets should strike up a lifelong friendship.
Care also has to taken
when introducing your new kitten to your children. If you teach your children
how to hold your kitten, when to play with him and when to let him sleep a
perfect friendship should happen. If you allow your children to manhandle
your kitten or to continually play with him and not let him sleep when he
needs it you will end up with either a very frightened kitten or a kitten that
is aloof and doesn’t want human interaction.
A kitten that is properly
introduced to his new family will soon settle and become a true member of the
family itself.
FEEDING
Tilsie kittens begin their weaning
at around 4 weeks of age. They are started on Lactol, a milk substitute, to
get them used to lapping out of a bowl and then they progress to ‘Natures
Menu’ kitten pouches, which is a soft, high meat content food, to get them
used to chewing. When they are well established on the meat I slowly
introduce some Royal Canin ‘Kitten 34’ dried kitten food mixed into the wet
food. Although the dried food is a complete food and can be the sole
food fed I find the mix of wet and dried food perfect and gives the kitten a
good variety.
All my cats are fed on
a mix of Royal Canin dried food and high fish/meat content pouches.
I have found Royal Canin to be a very good food for maintaining weight and
condition. They have a great variety for different stages in a cat’s life,
from weaning through to the more mature cat. They also have a specialist
breed range for adults one of which is ‘Persian’ although I have found my cats prefer
‘Sensible 33’. Due to these factors Tilsie kittens are also fed on Royal
Canin and to encourage you to continue I include a 400 gram bag Royal Canin
'Kitten 34' and some Nature's Menu kitten pouches. There is also a Royal Canin Kitten Pack included with each kitten
which includes a booklet and a voucher for your next bag of food.
When you pick your kitten
up he will be feeding on the ‘Kitten 34’ food and kitten pouches so you will not have to worry
about changing over to any other food until they are 12 months old. When your
kitten reaches 12 months I suggest you change their food over to ‘Sensible
33’. Don’t just change the food over in one go, gradually introduce it by
mixing it in with the younger food. This should be done over a period of 3-4
days minimum preferably a week. This gradual introduction should stop any
stomach upsets caused by the change over.
By the time you take your kitten
home they will be eating four meals a day. If you work you can alter this by giving them a
mixed feed in the morning, leave a bowl of dried food down while you are out
at work and then feed the other two meals as mixed. Never leave a feed
of wet and dried food mixed down as the wet food can easily go off and also it
can attract flies. Always make sure that there is plenty of fresh clean
water readily available especially when feeding the dried foods. I change my
cats water morning and night and keep the food bowl topped up during the day.
The food and water bowls should be thoroughly cleaned after feeding and each
time you change the water to avoid bacteria building up. If you leave the
bowls in the same place your kitten will soon get used to it and will quite
happily go and help himself.
Never feed cat’s ordinary
milk as their stomachs cannot digest it properly. There are plenty of
cat milks on the market if you want to give them a treat although I have never
fed any of my cats on them.
TOILETING
When you take your Tilsie
kitten home he will be fully litter trained.
In your kitten pack there
is a litter tray, scoop and litter to get you started at home. It is
very important that you chose a suitable, easily accessible and convenient
place to put the litter tray, away from their food and water bowls, and keep
to it. If you keep changing the position of the tray your kitten will
get confused and accidents will inevitably happen.
When you have decided on
where to put the tray, place a good thick layer of litter in the tray so
the whole of the base is covered. Cats are very clean by nature and therefore
you will have to keep the tray clean and fresh. Using the scoop, remove any
dirt morning and night and mix the litter round to keep it aired. The litter
will probably not need to be changed everyday but don’t let it get too
saturated as this will smell and your kitten/cat will start looking for another
place to use.
The tray that is in the
kitten pack is only an open tray the same as the kitten has been using prior
to you picking him up. You may wish to buy a covered tray as
your kitten grows. These usually have a filter in the lid to help stop any smells escaping.
These covered trays also help stop your
kitten/cat kicking the litter out of the tray. You can get them with or
without a door from most pet shops, online and even Argos. As for cat litter I have
found Catsan white litter to be most effective and that is what your kitten
will be used to and a bag is included in
the kitten pack. This is readily available from pet shops and even
supermarkets.
In the first few days in
your kitten’s new home you may experience the odd accident while he gets used
to his new surroundings and whereabouts his tray is. To help guard against this make sure you show your
kitten where his tray is and that he can always get to it. If you are going
out it would be best to leave him confined to the same room as the tray for a
while so he doesn’t panic in a big strange house and have an accident.
Cats are very adaptable
and within a few days your kitten will be very aware of his surroundings and
will be quite happily ruling a clean accident free household.
GROOMING AND BATHING
This section mainly applies to Persian
kittens/cats. Orientals and Siamese are obviously a lot easier and a rub over
with a chamois or piece of velvet is all that is needed to keep their coats
looking lovely although they still need their eyes, ear and nose cleaning
occasionally and there claws clipping.
Tilsie kittens are groomed
from a very early age and therefore when you take your kitten home it is best
to continue this from the beginning. If the grooming is done gently, but
thoroughly, your kitten will enjoy this time with you. All Persians
require regular grooming due to their thick, long coats. A Persian that is
regularly groomed is a most beautiful sight, but one that is not soon becomes
matted and looks neglected.
Starting with the face use
a piece of cotton wool, dip it in clean warm water and gently wipe from the inner
corner of the eye, being careful not to poke the eye, outwards. Use a clean
piece of cotton wool each time you wipe the eye, thus preventing any possible
spread of infection which may be present. This removes any staining that may
be there as Persians can have weepy eyes, some more than others. How
often this is done will depend on the individual kitten/cat, some need doing
every day while others only every few days. If the staining is really bad
then you will have to get a commercial product especially for stain removal.
Repeat the above procedure around the nose to clear it of any dirt that may be
there. Then take a cotton wool pad, again dipped in clean warm water, and
gently clean the ears. Use a fresh pad for each ear. Do not poke into the
ear as you could cause damage just clean where you can see. A commercial
ear cleaner can be used to loosen any dirt that is further down in the
ear. If there is excessive black dirt that may or may not be accompanied by a
smell take your kitten/cat to the vets as this is not normal and he may well
have an infection or ear mites. When cleaning the eyes, ears and nose be
careful not to over soak the cotton wool.
Next to start on the main
coat, Persians that is not Orientals or Siamese!! Gently brush the coat against the
lie, the wrong way, and using the wide toothed comb carefully comb through the
coat removing any loose and dead hair. Removing the dead hair helps
promote hair growth. Repeat this with the fine toothed
comb. When this is done you can, if you wish, sprinkle a little amount of
baby powder into the coat. Gently massage it in and then brush it out.
Putting powder in the coat separates the hair and fluffs the coat up and also
helps remove any grease that may be present but it isn’t an essential part of
the grooming routine. Don't use powder in dark coloured cats. If you intend to show your kitten/cat you must make
sure there is no powder left in the coat on show day or you risk
disqualification. A good way of making sure is to blow the coat with a
hairdryer on a cool setting. If you come across any knots while you are
grooming don’t tug at them but carefully tease them out. If you hurt your
kitten/cat while getting out knots he will remember and next time you come to
groom him it will be harder.
While you are grooming
your kitten/cat pay close attention to the skin, fur, ears and eyes for any
sign of parasites such as fleas, ticks, ear mites or ringworm, infection or any injuries
such as cuts or scratches. This way you can deal with any problems as soon as
it is necessary and keep your kitten/cat healthy and happy.
A show kitten/cat will
need bathing about three/four days before a show and even a Persian who is
just a pet will require a bath occasionally to keep his coat clean.
Tilsie kittens will have had at least two baths prior to leaving to get them
used to bathing. Firstly
thoroughly groom your kitten/cat, as above, to make sure the coat is free of
any knots or tangles but don’t put powder in the coat. Then using neat
washing up liquid, preferably a lemon one, gently rub some into the fur behind
the ears, under the chin and armpits, between the back legs and along the top
of the tail. This is done on these areas as they can get greasy easily,
due to sebaceous glands, and
the washing up liquid cuts the grease. Then using a shower attachment, if
possible, thoroughly wash and rinse these areas. When that is done wash the
coat with either baby shampoo or one of the many specialist cat shampoos that
are on the market, being careful not to get any water or shampoo in either the eyes or
the ears. Next thoroughly rinse the coat until the water runs completely
clear, using a shower attachment is preferably to putting water in a bath or
sink as the water can run away from the kitten/cat and you are therefore
guaranteed a soap free coat. When this is done gently rub the excess water off
your kitten/cat with a towel, used only for your pet, and dry gently with a
hairdryer making sure it isn’t set too high. Gently brush the coat with the
slicker brush while you are drying, lifting the coat to allow the undercoat to dry thoroughly
as well. Remember not to pull the coat. When the coat is completely dry and
only then should you add any powder, preferably leaving this until the
following day. If you add powder before the coat is completely dried
then it will clag in the coat and you will have to bath your kitten/cat again.
The only other aspect of
grooming is clipping the claws. You don’t need special clippers just a pair
of ordinary nail clippers will do. Gently press on the paw at each claw so it
comes out and just clip the very end off, be careful not to clip the quick as
the claw will bleed profusely. Do this with every claw not forgetting the dew
claws. If you are not sure about this ask your vet to show you. It is very
easy once you are used to it.
Now you should have
beautiful clean Persian.
VACCINATIONS
When you take your Tilsie
kitten home he will already have been vaccinated against feline panleucopaenia
(infectious enteritis or distemper), feline viral rhinotracheitis and feline
calicivirus (cat flu). These diseases are highly contagious and very
dangerous, in some cases they can be fatal. These vaccinations will have
been done at
approximately nine and twelve weeks by my vet. Your kitten will also have had
a thorough health check done at each appointment. These vaccinations will protect your kitten
in his first year of life but to continue the protection it is very important
that your vet administers a yearly booster and at the same time conducts a
routine health check.
If you intend to show your
kitten/cat or at sometime put him in a cattery you will be required to produce
an up-to-date vaccination card, stamped and signed by a vet. You will be
given your vaccination card when you take your kitten home. This will let you
know when the first booster is due as does the ‘Kitten Information Sheet’
contained in your information booklet.
For your kitten/cats
health please do not forget.
PARASITE CONTROL
Fleas and worms are a pet
owner’s nightmare as one leads to another and it appears to be a vicious
circle. Hopefully, as your Tilsie kitten will be kept indoors, you will not
encounter either of these. If, however, you have other animals that do go out
then they may bring these parasites back in with them. Prevention is always
the best option.
Fleas jump onto your
kitten/cat and lay their eggs. These then hatch out, feed on your cat, breed,
and lay more eggs and so on and so on. Soon you have an infestation. Not
only do they live on your kitten/cat but they also drop eggs onto carpets and
furnishings. If you do encounter fleas then not only treat your kitten/cat
but treat the whole environment as well. Only buy products from your vet or online
from sites such as vetuk.co.uk, they are cheaper than
the vets and usually free P & P, as you will end up spending more in the long run if
you buy from the pet shop as these products tend not to be as effective. Veterinary products
are far stronger and therefore have more lasting effect. Use a household spray such
as ‘Acclaim’. This breaks the life cycle of the flea and lasts up to 12
months. Follow the directions on the aerosol thoroughly. Another excellent
product, this time for your kitten/cat, is ‘Capstar’. You give your pet a
tablet when you see fleas or signs of fleas, e.g. flea dirt or eggs on him/her
and within 15 minutes it is taking effect on the fleas. Within 6 hours there
is between 95 - 100% success with complete success happening within 24
hours. Capstar should be used in conjunction with a spot-on or spray
treatment. As a preventative my cats are treated with ‘Frontline spot-on’. As
for Tilsie kittens they are also treated with ‘Frontline spot-on’ prior to you
taking him/her home. This kills any fleas that come in contact with the coat
and will last for 2 months. The date your kitten is due his/her next
treatment is on your ‘Kitten Information Sheet’ contained in your information
booklet.
Tapeworms are linked to
fleas. A kitten/cat, when irritated by a flea, will scratch and groom
him/herself and in doing so may swallow a tapeworm infested flea thus
infecting themselves. The worm then grows inside your kitten/cat reaching on
average a length of 8 inches, although they can grow to 20 inches. They are
made up of tiny, flat, white segments which break off and exit your
kitten/cats body. These segments then drop to the ground, lay eggs which are
then eaten by flea larva and so the cycle continues. There is another
tapeworm but the carrier is rodents and therefore an indoor kitten/cat should
not come into contact with this. Roundworms can be carried by the mother and
passed to her young through her milk, they can be picked up from the
environment and hunting cats by eating their prey, this of course should not
happen with an indoor kitten/cat. All my cats are wormed at 2 monthly
intervals. Tilsie kittens are wormed at 11 weeks of age. I use ‘Panacur
Liquid’ for both my adult cats and the kittens. It is given orally by an oral
syringe, available from your vets or your local chemist. The amount given is
dependant on the kitten/cats weight so be sure to weigh your kitten precisely. It is very easy to use and is available
from your vets or online sites like vetuk.co.uk. The date
your kitten needs to be wormed is also on the ‘Kitten Information Sheet’.
Remember prevention is
always best.
PLAY AND TOYS
Play is essential exercise
which is especially important for indoor cats. It is an enjoyable time for
both you and your kitten/cat and a great way to spend time together. Two
kittens/cats will interact together but they will still love your participation, as I
am sure you will. Please remember that although kittens are playful they are
still babies and as such need plenty of sleep. If you have children please
ensure they understand there are times for play and times for sleep. A kitten
who is tired but is continually being played with may scratch or bite no
matter how nice natured they are and that isn’t fair on either the kitten or
the child. Play needs to be enjoyed not dreaded.
There are many cat toys on
the market these days and they are readily available from pet shops,
supermarkets and on the internet. In the kitten pack there is a small
selection of toys. I am sure you will add to these with some of the many
cute, elaborate toys available. A kitten/cat doesn’t need expensive toys
though, they love cardboard boxes, paper bags, screwed up bits of paper, paper
attached to string and a favourite of my cats, crisp packets folded and tied
into a bow. In fact anything they can pat around the room. One of my cats
loves pens while another plays with the water in the water bowls and yet
another spends his time picking the candles out of their holders by their
wicks and hiding them. A word of warning about toys that are on string,
please do not leave your kitten/cat alone with them as I have known
kittens/cats get the string wrapped around their necks. As you can imagine
this is extremely dangerous.
One toy I consider an
essential cat accessory for an indoor cat is a scratching post or toy. A kitten/cat
needs to scratch as this helps keeps their claws short and also gets rid of
the old claw, called the sheath. Tilsie kittens are used to them and I have
included a kitten scratcher toy in the kitten pack. Obviously this scratching
toy will
not last as your kitten grows and I would recommend that you replace it with a
larger one in time. It is much better they do this on a specially
designed scratching post than on your furniture or carpet. They come in
varying shapes, sizes and prices and are available from pet shops and the
internet. The choice is yours. I would only say make sure they are
stable as some of the cheaper ones can fall over very easily, especially when
your kitten/cat suddenly charges up them like a lunatic as they are very prone
to doing!!
Remember enjoy this
playtime and your kitten/cat is bound to as well.
